Buying a bike? Ummm... which bike?

       
    Typical "Mountain Bike"                 Typical "Road Bike"                  Typical "Touring Bike"

Once upon a time, there was one kind of bike – the one with the huge wheel in front, and you wore a derby-hat when you were riding it, and you had to jump off when you came to a stop.

When I was a kid, there were really only 2 flavors of bike – either a “bike” (nowadays it would be called a “cruiser” model) with balloon tires, one forward speed, coaster brake and a full-upright riding position, or a “ten speed.” (If you had a “ten speed,” you were a SERIOUS bike rider!)

I can still remember when the “lightweight English 3-speed” came into the picture. A lighter-weight frame, skinnier tires, and racing-style caliper brakes, like a “ten speed,” but with an upright riding position, like the fat-tire cruiser. And - the feature that contributed to their name - a MYSTERIOUS rear hub that was able to switch gear ratios.  Adults liked ‘em, but they were never really popular with the kids – not enough “style.” (Style seems to play an important part in American transportation culture, be it bicycle, car, truck, motorcycle… whatever. Nothing wrong with that.)

Early in the 21st century, there are more types of bike than you can keep track of. You’ve still got your “cruiser” and “ten speed” bikes. (Although many of both types have way more than ten forward gears nowadays.) You’ve got “specialty” bikes – tandems and recumbents and hybrids and cyclocross and BMX and “stunt” bikes. If you’re shopping for one of those, you probably know what you’re looking for. What if you’re not sure? This information is intended for you – I hope it helps.

There are 2 most-common types of bike – the “mountain” bike, and the “road” or “racing” bike. Most “mountain” bikes are probably not ridden in the mountains, and most “racing” bikes are probably not ridden in races, but just the same, that’s what they’re called.

“Mountain” bikes came into being in the early 1980s, and quickly became the most popular “consumer” bike, by a wide margin. Most bike-historians will probably say they originated in California, north of San Francisco, but the truth is, there were probably many bikes with the features of mountain bikes, built by guys in garages, for years before they became commercially available (in the early ‘80s).

Mountain bikes are characterized by a relatively heavy-duty frame, “fat” (2+ inches) knobby tires, a wide range of gear ratios, powerful brakes, and upright riding position. In 2003, most mountain bikes have a telescopic front suspension. They are built to withstand the stresses of hard pedaling, bumps, and rapid stops. In my opinion, you should expect to pay AT LEAST $300 for a decent “mountain” bike. (Time of this writing… 2003.) (Twice that much will get you a lot more bike. More about bike prices later…)

Road bikes, by contrast, are more delicate and substantially lighter-weight. They have skinny (less than 1 inch) high-pressure, smooth-tread tires, a narrower choice of gear ratios, and an aerodynamic, forward-leaning riding position. If I were shopping for a road bike, I’d expect to pay at least $500-600 for an “entry-level” road bike.

Let’s compare the two – if you’re shopping, that’s what you’d do, right?

Mountain bikes are sturdy! They are built to take a lot of “punishment.” (Although my bike-shop buddy, Woody, tells me of people who bring their broken mountain bikes back to the shop, obviously beaten-to-death, and expect warranty coverage. A bike, like ANY piece of equipment, should be cared for, not abused.) Their fat tires and stretched geometry (more about “geometry” later) result in a cushy, plush ride. (If you’re going to do most of your riding on pavement, you can get smoother-tread tires than the standard dirt-oriented knobbies. Then you’ll have a REALLY plush and almost silent, smooth ride. The Lincoln Continental of bikes!)

By contrast, a road (“racing”) bike was not built for any level of abuse. If you ride it off curbs, do wheelies, go down stairs on it, etc., it won’t last you very long. The skinny tires have 2 or 3 times as much air pressure as the ones on the mountain bike, so there is very little rolling resistance – it takes substantially less effort to go the same distance, on pavement. (If you’re riding dirt roads and trails, you’re better off on a mountain bike.) Those skinny tires are also more susceptible to punctures and road hazards. The “tight” geometry, combined with the skinny tires, result in a bumpier ride – you’ll feel every bump and crack in the pavement. You may not like the lean-forward drop-handlebar riding position. (Although it’s more efficient than an upright position, both aerodynamically and physiologically, over flat terrain.) The reward for the “road bike sacrifice” is a bike that will put a huge grin on your face, whenever you’re gliding, seemingly effortlessly over a smooth stretch of asphalt. It’s about the most fun you can have, at least with those goofy-looking stretch shorts on! (Grin!)

Mountain bikes take a bit more effort to get where you’re going… assuming Point B is at the end of a paved road. The lower-pressure fat knobby tires just don’t roll quite as easy as those 1-inch, 120psi road bike tires. And your mountain bike could easily be 10 or 15 pounds heavier than the fancy road bike. If your route takes you over anything but the smoothest of dirt roads, however… you’ll prefer to be on a mountain bike. Those skinny road-bike tires are downright HAIRY if you’re squirtin’ around in sand or gravel.

(There are other variations nowadays, as well.  There's the "comfort" bike, which is more for flatland cruising and commuting.  There's the "cyclocross" bike - like a road bike but with slightly-knobby tires, designed for a specialized type of racing that's popular in Europe.  There's the classic fat-tire heavy "cruiser."  Etc., etc.)

My recommendation? If virtually all of your riding will be over paved roads, I’ve GOTTA suggest you try the road bike. It is SO enjoyable to whiz along – if you’ve got a slight tailwind, you could swear you could coast forever. If your riding is in a “real world” situation – a mix of paved and dirt roadways, commuting, errand-running, as well as recreation and fitness riding, a “mountain” bike would probably be your best option. They are highly customizable – in 15 minutes you can install some semi-skinny, slick-tread tires and you’re in pavement-mode. The fatter tires are definitely more trouble-free than those skinny little road bike tires. The upright riding position seems to be preferable to most casual riders. (Think of road bikes as the “sports car” of bicycling. Mountain bikes are the “SUV” of bicycling.)

Or – get one of each! Or – do what I have done. After years of riding mountain bikes and road bikes, I am now the owner of a “touring” bicycle. It’s a compromise – the wheelbase (geometry) is longer than a standard road bike, allowing for a cushier ride and wider tires. It has “drop” handlebars like a road bike, but it’s got a wide gear ratio and very powerful brakes, like a mountain bike. It has “bosses” – connecting points for fenders, touring racks, bottle cages, pump holders, etc. It is heavy-duty… and it weighs more than a road bike but less than a mountain bike. I’ve installed fenders on it – no more black stripe up my back on rainy days. For me, it is perfect – very reliable for commuting, easy-rolling enough to be pleasurable for over-the-road riding, but with tires that are wider for fewer flats and a smoother ride. In the summer, when there’s minimal road debris and I’m going on long road rides, I put my skinny-tires on it, and I GO!

GEOMETRY – relates to the shape and size of the bicycle’s frame and fork. One of the more critical measurements is the “wheelbase” – that’s the distance between the rear axle and the front axle. The longer the distance, the more “plush” the ride will be, as there will be more flex in the frame. (Think of a stick placed on top of two rocks. Apply downward pressure on the stick, in between the two rocks. If the rocks are far apart, the stick is easier to bend than if the rocks are close together.) So – why don’t all bikes have a longer wheelbase, for more comfort? Because that flex also results in less “pedal power” – some of your energy gets absorbed by the flex of the frame. Plus… a longer bike will also be slightly slower in handling than a shorter bike. A “racing” bike will usually have the shortest possible wheelbase, sacrificing riding comfort for maximum power and quickest handling. In the real world, you’ll probably be willing to sacrifice a tiny bit of that handling and power, if it means a cushier ride.

Wheelbase is not the only important part of geometry – you should get a bike that is built for your size, particularly your height and leg-length. A knowledgeable sales person at a good bike shop can help, if you don’t know.

HOW MUCH TO SPEND? You’ve probably seen the $79.95 bikes at Wal-Mart. Why spend $500 for a bike, if you can get one for $80?

You should think of those department-store bikes as “disposable.” They are mass-produced, as cheaply as possible, using the cheapest possible componentry. They are not designed to be maintained, other than the most minor adjustments. If you’re going to do 25 miles of sidewalk and pathway riding a year, one of those bikes would probably be fine for your needs. Ride it for 4 or 5 years, then donate it to Deseret Industries, and get a new one.

If you spend $300 or so for a mountain bike, you’ll get a much better frame (both stronger AND lighter), better-quality replaceable components and alloy rims. You’ll probably get a year’s worth of free adjustments at the bike shop. You’ll get a bike that fits you. If you spend $500 for a mountain bike, the components will be that much better – nicer finish and longer-lasting. Spend more – you can get into a bike that has suspension at both ends, super-trick paint, nicer components, a prestigious brand name.

You probably won’t find a “road” bike at the department store – because they’re not nearly as popular as “mountain” bikes, you don’t see as many entry-level road bikes. From what I see, bike-shop road bikes start at about $500-600, and like mountain bikes, the sky’s the limit.

Can you spend TOO much for a bike? I think so. If you’re going to ride 25 miles a year, or even 250, it would be silly to do it on a $3000 bicycle. Even if you’re going to take up bicycling as a “lifestyle” thing, you eventually get to a “diminishing returns” situation. If you’re not compelled to own the very, very best… how much do you really want to spend, to get slightly-nicer chain rings, or to shave 25 grams off the weight of your bike? (You can get a set of titanium road-bike “skewers” – that’s the quick-release mechanism for the wheels – that’s 1 ounce lighter than the steel models, and $150 more expensive. Worth it? I say no, but if you’re Bill Gates, maybe you say yes.)

Email me - ( bikeboy (at) idahospud (dot) net )  (Sorry for no link - blame the spammers!)